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Traversing the Untrammeled Wilderness of Maine: A Journey Spanning 100 Miles

Seasoned author embarks on an expedition into Maine's 100-Mile Wilderness, dishing out beloved treks for hiking and kayaking from the area.

Explorer and accomplished writer recounts thrilling journeys through Maine's 100-Mile Wilderness,...
Explorer and accomplished writer recounts thrilling journeys through Maine's 100-Mile Wilderness, offering insights into his preferred hiking trails and water routes from the region.

Traversing the Untrammeled Wilderness of Maine: A Journey Spanning 100 Miles

Navigating the breathtaking panoramas of Maine's uncharted territories, the legendary 100-Mile Wilderness calls adventurers.

Trekking through Maine's untamed scenic routes

My first brush with Maine's renowned 100-Mile Wilderness (100MW) happened in the sweltering summer of 1974. Joining forces with a junior high pal, we dreamed up a mission to hike the Appalachian Trail from Monson to Katahdin, intending to crush the 100 trail miles of the name and the final 15 miles within Baxter State Park. However, our intense optimism didn't match our limited experience, resulting in a four-day adventure yielding merely 25 miles. Finally, humbled by blackfly bites, a moderate portion of homesickness, and a dramatic thunderstorm, we retreated, seeking refuge in a logging truck's cab before reaching Chairback Mountain Camps on Long Pond (now home to AMC's lodge).

The 100MW beckoned me once more on the cusp of autumn 1977, when I completed a 2,100-mile thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. Matured, muscular, and seasoned from five months of uninterrupted trekking, I achieved my long-held goals and settled my unfinished business from three years prior. I reveled in the 100MW's splendors: the fiery fall foliage, mountain vistas, pristine bodies of water, the aromatic spruce-fir woodlands, the loons and moose, and the serenity of this vast expanse of wilderness. I was captivated by this unique corner of Maine for life, and returned many times for hiking, camping, and fishing.

Originally, the 100MW region had been primarily a working forest for over a century. Majors shifts in the paper industry led to land ownership changes, affecting not only the 100MW but Maine's North Woods as a whole. Approximately 6 million acres of land changed hands between the 1980s and 2000s, with a tumultuous period of uncertainty. Yet, out of this chaos, fresh opportunities for both conservation and recreation emerged.

AMC made a significant impact in the 100MW with its acquisition of the 37,000-acre Katahdin Iron Works Tract in 2003. This marked the start of the Maine Woods Initiative, AMC's conservation strategy for the region. The Initiative aims to fulfill local economic and ecological needs through a combination of outdoor recreation, resource protection, responsible forestry, and community partnerships. In 2009, AMC purchased the adjacent 29,500-acre Roach Ponds Tract, creating a 63-mile-long stretch of conserved land that connected AMC's KIW property with the northern end of Baxter State Park.

In addition to AMC's conservation work, the region boasts over 300,000 acres of conserved land. This includes the State of Maine-owned Nahmakanta Public Reserved Land, the 46,000-acre Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness Area obtained by The Nature Conservancy (TNC), and multiple tracts of land managed by conservation nonprofits like the Forest Society of Maine and Elliotsville Plantation, Inc. The Katahdin Forest Easement, covering 210,000 acres, and the Moosehead Region Conservation Easement, encompassing 363,000 acres, were both secured by TNC, along with AMC and FSM.

Hiking, wildlife spotting, birdwatching, photography, and mountain biking have gained popularity in Maine, while hunting and fishing have seen a decline. The conserved lands in the 100MW offer a plethora of new outdoor pursuits for both day-trippers and backpackers. As I embark on my latest journey into the 100MW, I eagerly anticipate meeting old friends - familiar trails and precious locations that ignited my passion for the region as a teenager - while exploring new paths. Here are some of my favorite escapades:

1: Hike Lodge-to-Lodge | AMC Maine LodgesExperience a self-guided, multi-day hiking adventure via the Head of the Gulf, Rim, Appalachian, and Henderson Brook trails for a total of about 9 miles. Marvel at Gulf Hagas' breathtaking waterfalls en route. Lodges such as Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback provide private log cabins, gas lights, wood stoves, and amenities like home-cooked meals, hot showers, and wood-fired saunas. Day treks or overnight excursions are possible from each location.

2: Hike the Debsconeag Backcountry Trail | Nahmakanta Public Reserved LandOffering a 12-mile figure-eight loop, this trail showcases an 11,000-acre ecological reserve in the northeast corner of the property. Available as a long day hike or overnight backpacking trip, the route encompasses Stink Pond, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh, and Eighth Debsconeag ponds, ideal for spotting moose. Tucked away in Nahmakanta Lake, Tumbledown Dick Trail features two backcountry tentsites along a 5-mile route.

3: Paddle Debsconeag Lake | Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness AreaLaunch your canoe or kayak at Omaha Beach on the Debsconeag Deadwater and paddle through the Debsconeag chain of lakes. Take advantage of the various primitive campsites found on First, Second, and Third Debsconeag lakes, linked by portage trails. In the Ice Caves on First Debsconeag Lake, take a refreshing diversion among the deep holes and towering boulders. Wet your line for brook and lake trout, and Arctic char.

4: Climb Borestone Mountain | Borestone Mountain SanctuaryReach the twin-peaked crag of Borestone Mountain for panoramic vistas ranging from the Bigelows to Moosehead Lake to Katahdin; in the visitor center, explore the fascinating exhibits detailing the property's history and ecology.

Looking to delve deeper? Check out: WHAT IS THE 100-MILE WILDERNESS?

The 100-Mile Wilderness, while not legally considered a wilderness area, is nonetheless wild and untouched. Its 750,000 acres stretch from the village of Monson to Abol Bridge and include forests, mountains, lakes, and rivers. Popularized by hiking enthusiast Stephen Clark, the moniker warns adventurers of the lack of resupply points along its remote 100-mile length.

In the realm of outdoor recreation, the 100-Mile Wilderness serves as an idyllic playground for hikers and nature lovers, offering opportunities to immerse themselves in the heart of Maine's unspoiled wilderness. This extensive wilderness region, often paired with home-and-garden experiences at charming lodge locations, provides a perfect blend of lifestyle and outdoor-living pursuits. For sports enthusiasts, activities such as hiking, birdwatching, paddling, and mountain biking can all be found within this expansive 750,000-acre expanse.

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