Style guide for the contemporary gentlemAN, penned by Nick Foulkes
The Duke of Windsor, a historical figure, was a sartorial rebel who influenced men's fashion in the 1920s and '30s. His unconventional choices, such as wearing Argyle socks and Fair Isle sweaters, scandalized society but also helped liberate men from the tyranny of tailcoats and starched collars.
The Duke's "dress soft" maxim paved the way for a new era in menswear, where the modern gentleman is not merely someone who owns nice clothes, but someone who understands that his appearance is a form of communication and a courtesy extended to others.
In the 1980s, Hermès-ish ties were as ubiquitous as Loro Piana Open Walk suede ankle boots are today among certain groups. Wearing jewellery was once considered dangerously Mediterranean, except for old signet rings. However, times have changed, and the modern gentleman is incredibly discerning and gravitates towards excellence in all areas, according to Giles Deacon.
Fast forward to 2023, and Janet Mandell is influencing menswear fashion by basing her designs on the principles of "comfort" and "freedom." She has created a couture-level clothing rental service that emphasizes comfort and luxury.
Charlie Casely-Hayford, a tailor, states that the T-shirt and suit look works best with an elegant Neapolitan-style shoulder. Ncuti Gatwa, the Doctor Who actor, attracted attention at this year's Met Gala for dressing like a modern gentleman. His outfit included an Ozwald Boateng suit, Boucheron jewel, Jimmy Choo patent-leather pumps, and gloves.
In today's open-necked world, going tieless should be a mindset, not a result of the office being too warm. Wearing an open-necked shirt well often involves a silk neckerchief or an Hermès Losange. Jermyn St-based tailor Emma Willis advises asking for a stiffer interlining to prevent the collar from wilting when not wearing a tie.
Boateng, a Savile Row-based designer, believes having a modern outlook on traditional views is important. He suggests that wearing a suit with a T-shirt can be acceptable but requires thought and the right type of tailoring.
On a different note, Alison Friend's first book, titled "The Dog Portraits of Alison Friend," will be published next month by Workman Publishing. The book features various canine artworks by the artist.
The Duke of Windsor is often regarded as a sartorial arbiter in some quarters. His influence can still be felt in today's fashion, reminding us that fashion is a constant evolution, shaped by the rebels and visionaries who dare to challenge the norm.
